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Nest Boxes for Laying Hens: How Many, What Size, How High and What to Line Them With

Field guide · Updated October 22, 2026 · about 9 min read

Hens look for a secluded spot to lay, and Utah State University Extension calls nest boxes "essential furnishings of any hen house." Good nests keep eggs clean, cut down on eggs laid on the floor and, according to several extension services, are one of the main defenses against egg eating. This page sets out the numbers the sources give for nest count, size and height, where to put the boxes, what to line them with and how they fit into daily egg collection.

Short version: about one 12 × 12-inch nest for every four to five hens, mounted 18 to 24 inches or more above the floor with a perch in front, in a darker part of the coop, away from the roosts, lined with about 2 inches of clean, dry material, and collected at least twice a day (Penn State, Utah State, Virginia Cooperative Extension, University of Minnesota).

How many nest boxes: what each source says

The sources agree that hens share nests, but not on how many hens per nest. The range runs from one box per three to four hens (University of Delaware) to one nest space per five hens (University of Georgia). Two sources also set a minimum number of boxes regardless of flock size; neither says whether that floor is meant for very small flocks.

SourceHens per nestOther figures
University of Delaware (2025)3–4Line with soft bedding such as straw or pine shavings
Penn State Extension (2016)4Minimum of four nest boxes; 12 × 12 in; 24 in above the floor, away from roosts
Oregon State EC 1644about 4About 12 in deep × 12 in wide × 12 in tall
Oklahoma State AFS-8202 (2017)4Nests in a dark portion of the house
Mississippi State Extensionat least 1 standard nest per 4Too little nest space listed as a cause of egg eating
University of Georgia, Cunningham (2005)4Hens without access to a nest may lay elsewhere
Utah State Extension (2008)4–512–15 in high and wide, at least 12 in deep; at least 18 in above the floor
Kansas State EP-70 (2000)4–512 × 12 in; at least 2 ft off the ground
Virginia Cooperative Extension (2009); Univ. of Kentucky, Jacob4–512 × 12 in; never fewer than six boxes; at least 2 ft up and at least 4 ft from roosts
University of Minnesota Extension (2025)4–5—
University of Maine 4-Hat least 1 box per 5A substantial layer of pine shavings in bedded boxes
University of Georgia, Webster (2007)about 5Each box big enough for a hen to stand and turn around

Applied to common backyard flock sizes, the two most-cited ratios give the counts below (our arithmetic, rounded up). The coop space calculator uses one per four hens.

Hens1 nest per 4 hens1 nest per 5 hens
311
622
1032
1543
2054

Size, height and the parts of a nest box

Most sources give a box of about 12 inches each way. Utah State allows 12 to 15 inches high and wide. The University of Georgia gives no dimensions but says a hen should be able to stand comfortably and turn around. Mounting height varies more: at least 18 inches (Utah State), 24 inches (Penn State) or at least 2 feet (Kansas State, Virginia). Georgia adds a limit for heavy meat-type hens: boxes or perches no higher than 18 inches unless there is a ramp.

Side view of a wall-mounted nest box with the dimensions extension sources give Cutaway side view of a single nest box fixed to a coop wall in a shaded corner. Numbered markers: 1, the box, about 12 inches each way; 2, a roof sloped at about 45 degrees; 3, a front lip 4 to 6 inches high; 4, about 2 inches of nesting material with an egg on it; 5, a landing perch 6 to 8 inches in front of the box; 6, the box floor 18 to 24 inches above the coop floor; 7, a ladder-like ramp up to the perch; 8, a roost pole at least 4 feet away from the nest; 9, the darker part of the coop. Details are in the numbered list below. opening 18–24 in about 12 in at least 4 ft from roosts roost 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
  1. Box: about 12 × 12 × 12 in (Oregon State; Penn State 12 × 12 in); Utah State allows 12–15 in high and wide, at least 12 in deep
  2. Sloped roof: about 45° so birds don't roost on top (Oregon State); Kansas State also calls for sloped nest tops
  3. Front lip: 4–6 in high, for seclusion and to keep eggs from rolling out (Utah State)
  4. Nesting material: about 2 in, clean and dry (Virginia, Kentucky); "several inches" (Kansas State)
  5. Landing perch: 6–8 in out from the front (Utah State); Oregon State suggests a pole outside each box or along a row
  6. Height: at least 18 in (Utah State) to 24 in (Penn State) or at least 2 ft (Kansas State, Virginia); no more than 18 in for heavy meat-type hens without a ramp (Georgia)
  7. Ramp: a chicken-size, ladder-like ramp on a slant if birds need help (Oregon State)
  8. Away from roosts: Penn State says away from roosts; Virginia and Kentucky say at least 4 ft
  9. Darker spot: nests in a dark portion of the house (Oklahoma State, Kansas State); avoid bright light near nests (Virginia)
Drawn by HenClass from Oregon State EC 1644, Utah State's Housing Backyard Chickens, Penn State, Kansas State EP-70, Virginia Cooperative Extension 2902-1096, the University of Kentucky (Jacob), Oklahoma State AFS-8202 and the University of Georgia. One box shown in cutaway; sources differ on each figure. Not to scale.

Where to put the boxes

Nesting material

Bedding cushions eggs, absorbs moisture and keeps eggs cleaner, and hens avoid dirty nests (Georgia, Cunningham). Leaving it out encourages floor laying (Georgia, Webster).

QuestionWhat the sources say
Which materialPine shavings, peat moss, rice hulls, chopped corn cobs, straw, excelsior pads, peanut hulls or shredded paper (Georgia); wheat straw recommended (Kansas State); straw or pine shavings (Delaware); pine shavings (Maine 4-H)
How deep2 in (Virginia, Kentucky); several inches (Kansas State); a substantial layer (Maine 4-H)
When to change itWhen soiled (Maine 4-H); frequently, to keep dirty eggs to a minimum (Oklahoma State); periodically, to keep it clean and free of parasites (Georgia); straight away if it has broken egg on it (Kansas State)
Roll-out boxesMaine 4-H notes that roll-out boxes are the exception to bedding the box
Deep cleaningDisinfect nests along with troughs and perches when cleaning the coop (Minnesota). For mites and lice, see mite treatment options.

Floor eggs

Eggs laid on the floor are more likely to be soiled, cracked and contaminated with bacteria, which shortens shelf life and raises the food-safety risk (Georgia, Webster). The same source lists the usual causes: too few boxes, so lower-ranking hens are crowded out; boxes that are hard to reach; nests without litter; and inviting corners elsewhere in the coop. Georgia's 2005 tip adds that floor eggs breed more floor eggs, because other layers lay outside the nest when they see eggs on the ground, so pick them up often while pullets are starting to lay.

Egg eating: what nests have to do with it

Egg eating usually starts when a hen finds a broken egg, and other hens copy the habit (Kansas State, Kentucky). Most prevention steps the extension services list are about the nests.

CausePreventionSources
Crowded nests, heavy trafficEnough nests (see table above); remove broody hens, which occupy nests and add trafficVirginia, Kentucky, Mississippi State
Little or no paddingKeep soft, clean, dry material in every nestVirginia, Mississippi State, Kansas State
Eggs left too longCollect often, and early: most hens lay before 10 a.m.Mississippi State, Virginia
Bright light near nestsDarken the nest areaVirginia, Kansas State
Hens startled off the nestAvoid noise and sudden movement around nestsKansas State, Virginia
Thin, weak shellsComplete layer ration; oyster shell free choice (see feeding laying hens)Virginia, Kentucky, Kansas State, Mississippi State
Feeding shells backCrush them very finely so hens don't link shell with eggVirginia

The sources disagree on diet. Kentucky's article suggests the habit may start from a calcium or vitamin D deficiency or plain curiosity. Kansas State says egg eating is learned, not usually a mineral or vitamin deficiency, and that no feed or water additive prevents it. Once the habit has started, Kansas State, Virginia and Kentucky all say to remove the hen responsible; Kansas State calls this often the only reliable fix and says to watch the flock for a few days for dried yolk on a beak or the side of the head.

Collecting from the nests

Penn State and the University of Minnesota say to collect eggs twice a day; Mississippi State says two to three times; Kansas State says as often as possible. Penn State lists the reasons: fewer broken eggs, less broodiness and less egg eating. For eggs meant for hatching, Georgia's 2005 tip says at least four times a day. After collecting, follow the cleaning and refrigeration steps in egg handling and washing.

Broody hens in the nest boxes

A broody hen stays in a box for long periods, can become territorial and keeps other hens from laying there; nest boxes at least make her easy to spot (Utah State). Virginia and Kentucky say to remove broody hens from the nesting area. See broody hens for letting her hatch or breaking the brood.

Nest box checklist

  1. Count hens and divide by four (or five); round up.
  2. Build or buy boxes about 12 in each way, with a 4–6 in front lip and a sloped top.
  3. Mount them 18–24 in or more above the floor, lower or with a ramp for heavy hens, with a landing perch in front.
  4. Place them in the darker part of the coop, away from the roosts, with no tempting corners elsewhere.
  5. Line them with about 2 in of clean, dry shavings or straw; replace soiled or egg-stained material.
  6. Have the nests ready a couple of weeks before pullets start laying; pick up any floor eggs quickly.
  7. Collect eggs at least twice a day, starting in the morning.
  8. Watch for broody hens and for yolk on beaks.

Sources

  1. Penn State Extension — Management Requirements for Laying Flocks (Phillip J. Clauer, updated 2016)
  2. Utah State University Extension — Housing Backyard Chickens (David D. Frame, 2008)
  3. Oregon State University Extension — Living on the Land: Backyard Chicken Coop Design (EC 1644)
  4. Kansas State University Research and Extension — Preventing Hens From Eating Eggs (EP-70, R. Scott Beyer, 2000)
  5. Virginia Cooperative Extension — Prevention of Egg Eating (2902-1096, 2009)
  6. University of Kentucky, Jacquie Jacob — Egg Eating by Chickens in Small and Backyard Flocks (Poultry Extension)
  7. Mississippi State University Extension — Causes for Hens Eating Their Eggs
  8. University of Georgia Cooperative Extension — Backyard Flock Tip: Egg Laying Behavior (Bruce Webster, 2007)
  9. University of Georgia Cooperative Extension — Backyard Flock Tip: Maintaining Hatching Egg Quality (Dan L. Cunningham, 2005)
  10. Oklahoma State University Extension — Backyard Flock Production (AFS-8202, 2017)
  11. University of Minnesota Extension — Raising chickens for eggs
  12. University of Maine Cooperative Extension 4-H — Housing Your Pullets
  13. University of Delaware Cooperative Extension — Chicken Housing and Coop Maintenance (2025)