Housing
Nest Boxes for Laying Hens: How Many, What Size, How High and What to Line Them With
Hens look for a secluded spot to lay, and Utah State University Extension calls nest boxes "essential furnishings of any hen house." Good nests keep eggs clean, cut down on eggs laid on the floor and, according to several extension services, are one of the main defenses against egg eating. This page sets out the numbers the sources give for nest count, size and height, where to put the boxes, what to line them with and how they fit into daily egg collection.
Short version: about one 12 × 12-inch nest for every four to five hens, mounted 18 to 24 inches or more above the floor with a perch in front, in a darker part of the coop, away from the roosts, lined with about 2 inches of clean, dry material, and collected at least twice a day (Penn State, Utah State, Virginia Cooperative Extension, University of Minnesota).
How many nest boxes: what each source says
The sources agree that hens share nests, but not on how many hens per nest. The range runs from one box per three to four hens (University of Delaware) to one nest space per five hens (University of Georgia). Two sources also set a minimum number of boxes regardless of flock size; neither says whether that floor is meant for very small flocks.
| Source | Hens per nest | Other figures |
|---|---|---|
| University of Delaware (2025) | 3–4 | Line with soft bedding such as straw or pine shavings |
| Penn State Extension (2016) | 4 | Minimum of four nest boxes; 12 × 12 in; 24 in above the floor, away from roosts |
| Oregon State EC 1644 | about 4 | About 12 in deep × 12 in wide × 12 in tall |
| Oklahoma State AFS-8202 (2017) | 4 | Nests in a dark portion of the house |
| Mississippi State Extension | at least 1 standard nest per 4 | Too little nest space listed as a cause of egg eating |
| University of Georgia, Cunningham (2005) | 4 | Hens without access to a nest may lay elsewhere |
| Utah State Extension (2008) | 4–5 | 12–15 in high and wide, at least 12 in deep; at least 18 in above the floor |
| Kansas State EP-70 (2000) | 4–5 | 12 × 12 in; at least 2 ft off the ground |
| Virginia Cooperative Extension (2009); Univ. of Kentucky, Jacob | 4–5 | 12 × 12 in; never fewer than six boxes; at least 2 ft up and at least 4 ft from roosts |
| University of Minnesota Extension (2025) | 4–5 | — |
| University of Maine 4-H | at least 1 box per 5 | A substantial layer of pine shavings in bedded boxes |
| University of Georgia, Webster (2007) | about 5 | Each box big enough for a hen to stand and turn around |
Applied to common backyard flock sizes, the two most-cited ratios give the counts below (our arithmetic, rounded up). The coop space calculator uses one per four hens.
| Hens | 1 nest per 4 hens | 1 nest per 5 hens |
|---|---|---|
| 3 | 1 | 1 |
| 6 | 2 | 2 |
| 10 | 3 | 2 |
| 15 | 4 | 3 |
| 20 | 5 | 4 |
Size, height and the parts of a nest box
Most sources give a box of about 12 inches each way. Utah State allows 12 to 15 inches high and wide. The University of Georgia gives no dimensions but says a hen should be able to stand comfortably and turn around. Mounting height varies more: at least 18 inches (Utah State), 24 inches (Penn State) or at least 2 feet (Kansas State, Virginia). Georgia adds a limit for heavy meat-type hens: boxes or perches no higher than 18 inches unless there is a ramp.
- Box: about 12 × 12 × 12 in (Oregon State; Penn State 12 × 12 in); Utah State allows 12–15 in high and wide, at least 12 in deep
- Sloped roof: about 45° so birds don't roost on top (Oregon State); Kansas State also calls for sloped nest tops
- Front lip: 4–6 in high, for seclusion and to keep eggs from rolling out (Utah State)
- Nesting material: about 2 in, clean and dry (Virginia, Kentucky); "several inches" (Kansas State)
- Landing perch: 6–8 in out from the front (Utah State); Oregon State suggests a pole outside each box or along a row
- Height: at least 18 in (Utah State) to 24 in (Penn State) or at least 2 ft (Kansas State, Virginia); no more than 18 in for heavy meat-type hens without a ramp (Georgia)
- Ramp: a chicken-size, ladder-like ramp on a slant if birds need help (Oregon State)
- Away from roosts: Penn State says away from roosts; Virginia and Kentucky say at least 4 ft
- Darker spot: nests in a dark portion of the house (Oklahoma State, Kansas State); avoid bright light near nests (Virginia)
Where to put the boxes
- Somewhere darker. Oklahoma State and Kansas State put nests in the darker part of the house; Kansas State says less light at the nests also reduces pecking and cannibalism. Georgia notes that some hens prefer dark nests and others more light, and suggests small differences in look and lighting between boxes so each hen can find one she likes.
- Away from the roosts. Penn State, Virginia and Kentucky all say so; Oregon State adds that boxes should not sit directly on the ground or lower than the roosting poles, which helps keep them cleaner.
- No rival "nests." Georgia warns against enclosed spots, shadowy corners and loose litter in other secluded places, which hens may choose instead of the boxes.
- Easy to reach. Hard-to-reach boxes push hens to lay elsewhere (Georgia). Give raised boxes a perch, and a ramp if birds struggle (Oregon State).
- In place before laying starts. Georgia's 2005 tip says to set up nests before the birds begin laying; its 2007 tip says pullets should explore the boxes for a couple of weeks first, because floor laying is hard to correct once it starts. See how long hens lay for how production changes with age.
Nesting material
Bedding cushions eggs, absorbs moisture and keeps eggs cleaner, and hens avoid dirty nests (Georgia, Cunningham). Leaving it out encourages floor laying (Georgia, Webster).
| Question | What the sources say |
|---|---|
| Which material | Pine shavings, peat moss, rice hulls, chopped corn cobs, straw, excelsior pads, peanut hulls or shredded paper (Georgia); wheat straw recommended (Kansas State); straw or pine shavings (Delaware); pine shavings (Maine 4-H) |
| How deep | 2 in (Virginia, Kentucky); several inches (Kansas State); a substantial layer (Maine 4-H) |
| When to change it | When soiled (Maine 4-H); frequently, to keep dirty eggs to a minimum (Oklahoma State); periodically, to keep it clean and free of parasites (Georgia); straight away if it has broken egg on it (Kansas State) |
| Roll-out boxes | Maine 4-H notes that roll-out boxes are the exception to bedding the box |
| Deep cleaning | Disinfect nests along with troughs and perches when cleaning the coop (Minnesota). For mites and lice, see mite treatment options. |
Floor eggs
Eggs laid on the floor are more likely to be soiled, cracked and contaminated with bacteria, which shortens shelf life and raises the food-safety risk (Georgia, Webster). The same source lists the usual causes: too few boxes, so lower-ranking hens are crowded out; boxes that are hard to reach; nests without litter; and inviting corners elsewhere in the coop. Georgia's 2005 tip adds that floor eggs breed more floor eggs, because other layers lay outside the nest when they see eggs on the ground, so pick them up often while pullets are starting to lay.
Egg eating: what nests have to do with it
Egg eating usually starts when a hen finds a broken egg, and other hens copy the habit (Kansas State, Kentucky). Most prevention steps the extension services list are about the nests.
| Cause | Prevention | Sources |
|---|---|---|
| Crowded nests, heavy traffic | Enough nests (see table above); remove broody hens, which occupy nests and add traffic | Virginia, Kentucky, Mississippi State |
| Little or no padding | Keep soft, clean, dry material in every nest | Virginia, Mississippi State, Kansas State |
| Eggs left too long | Collect often, and early: most hens lay before 10 a.m. | Mississippi State, Virginia |
| Bright light near nests | Darken the nest area | Virginia, Kansas State |
| Hens startled off the nest | Avoid noise and sudden movement around nests | Kansas State, Virginia |
| Thin, weak shells | Complete layer ration; oyster shell free choice (see feeding laying hens) | Virginia, Kentucky, Kansas State, Mississippi State |
| Feeding shells back | Crush them very finely so hens don't link shell with egg | Virginia |
The sources disagree on diet. Kentucky's article suggests the habit may start from a calcium or vitamin D deficiency or plain curiosity. Kansas State says egg eating is learned, not usually a mineral or vitamin deficiency, and that no feed or water additive prevents it. Once the habit has started, Kansas State, Virginia and Kentucky all say to remove the hen responsible; Kansas State calls this often the only reliable fix and says to watch the flock for a few days for dried yolk on a beak or the side of the head.
Collecting from the nests
Penn State and the University of Minnesota say to collect eggs twice a day; Mississippi State says two to three times; Kansas State says as often as possible. Penn State lists the reasons: fewer broken eggs, less broodiness and less egg eating. For eggs meant for hatching, Georgia's 2005 tip says at least four times a day. After collecting, follow the cleaning and refrigeration steps in egg handling and washing.
Broody hens in the nest boxes
A broody hen stays in a box for long periods, can become territorial and keeps other hens from laying there; nest boxes at least make her easy to spot (Utah State). Virginia and Kentucky say to remove broody hens from the nesting area. See broody hens for letting her hatch or breaking the brood.
Nest box checklist
- Count hens and divide by four (or five); round up.
- Build or buy boxes about 12 in each way, with a 4–6 in front lip and a sloped top.
- Mount them 18–24 in or more above the floor, lower or with a ramp for heavy hens, with a landing perch in front.
- Place them in the darker part of the coop, away from the roosts, with no tempting corners elsewhere.
- Line them with about 2 in of clean, dry shavings or straw; replace soiled or egg-stained material.
- Have the nests ready a couple of weeks before pullets start laying; pick up any floor eggs quickly.
- Collect eggs at least twice a day, starting in the morning.
- Watch for broody hens and for yolk on beaks.
Sources
- Penn State Extension — Management Requirements for Laying Flocks (Phillip J. Clauer, updated 2016)
- Utah State University Extension — Housing Backyard Chickens (David D. Frame, 2008)
- Oregon State University Extension — Living on the Land: Backyard Chicken Coop Design (EC 1644)
- Kansas State University Research and Extension — Preventing Hens From Eating Eggs (EP-70, R. Scott Beyer, 2000)
- Virginia Cooperative Extension — Prevention of Egg Eating (2902-1096, 2009)
- University of Kentucky, Jacquie Jacob — Egg Eating by Chickens in Small and Backyard Flocks (Poultry Extension)
- Mississippi State University Extension — Causes for Hens Eating Their Eggs
- University of Georgia Cooperative Extension — Backyard Flock Tip: Egg Laying Behavior (Bruce Webster, 2007)
- University of Georgia Cooperative Extension — Backyard Flock Tip: Maintaining Hatching Egg Quality (Dan L. Cunningham, 2005)
- Oklahoma State University Extension — Backyard Flock Production (AFS-8202, 2017)
- University of Minnesota Extension — Raising chickens for eggs
- University of Maine Cooperative Extension 4-H — Housing Your Pullets
- University of Delaware Cooperative Extension — Chicken Housing and Coop Maintenance (2025)